Why You Need to Salt Your Mashed Potatoes Three Times

I have two golden rules to live by in my kitchen: "Clean as you go" and "salt as you go." A messy kitchen stresses me out and slows me down, but skipping salting along the way is an even bigger mistake. Salting throughout the cooking process isn't just about making food taste salty—it's about unlocking potential.

Salt suppresses bitterness and enhances sweet and umami flavors, revealing the best of every ingredient. In mashed potatoes, it's not the star of the show, but it's an indispensable supporting actor, the one who makes everyone else look good.

Because potatoes absorb salt differently depending on when you add it, the key is to salt with intention at three different points in the process: when boiling, when mashing, and right before serving.

When to Salt the Water

Like pasta water, potato cooking water should be generously salted. Potatoes are dense and starchy, and you only get one real opportunity to season within: while they cook. As they simmer, their starch granules swell and absorb the salted water, seasoning every bite from the inside out.

Once they're fully cooked, the starches are hydrated and can't absorb any more. Add salt afterward, and it'll only cling to the surface, leaving you with unevenly seasoned spuds. As we found when testing Ree Drummond's mashed potato recipe, skipping the salt-in-the-water step leaves the final mash tasting flat, even with a hefty sprinkle at the end.

Early in my career, when I was too cocky to use a measuring spoon (the chef's equivalent of riding your bike no-hands), I'd just go by taste: the water should taste like the ocean. Since most of that water and its salt is drained off, you need to be generous, if not excessive. 

These days, I've learned the power of precision. I now measure two tablespoons of kosher salt per quart of cooking water, or one tablespoon of kosher salt for every pound of potatoes.

How to Season When Mashing

Once you've cooked and mashed your potatoes and stirred in butter, cream, maybe a little horseradish, garlic, or cream cheese, it's time for round two. The second salting wakes everything up, makes those rich, cozy flavors pop, and ties everything together. 

Start conservatively, adding one pinch at a time and tasting as you go. Mix gently, as overworking your potatoes can turn them gluey. Technically, a pinch equals 1/16 to 1/8 teaspoon, though I'll admit mine push a quarter teaspoon when I'm really vibing in the kitchen. It's better to start small here. You can always add more, but can't take it away.

I use Diamond Crystal kosher salt, which has no additives and is less salty by volume than Morton's, giving me a little cushion for when I inevitably get heavy-handed. Leave the table salt at the table; its fine grains make it saltier by volume and tricky to control with your fingers.

How To Finish With Flaky Salt

For the final flourish, sprinkle your perfectly seasoned mashed potatoes with coarse, flaky salt just before serving. Those large, irregular flakes don't dissolve immediately, adding a delicate crunch that contrasts beautifully with the silky texture. Maldon's pyramid-shaped flakes even catch the light, adding a subtle shimmer and a burst of bold, buttery flavor.

Finishing salt is a garnish, not the headliner. Its big flakes are easy to control, so you can be deliberate with your sprinkle. Sprinkling from high above helps distribute the salt evenly and prevents salty patches and neglected bland zones. If you're feeling fancy, try smoked, truffle, or rosemary-infused salts for a fragrant twist.

How To Fix Salty Mashed Potatoes

If your pinch turns into a handful, don't panic. You can course-correct oversalted mashed potatoes by stirring in more unsalted butter, cream, sour cream, or cream cheese—their richness mellows the saltiness. A splash of vinegar can also balance things out, the way tang does in a good salt-and-vinegar chip.